Sailing ever northward in search of wildlife, culture and history

Venturing to rarely-visited sites along the Newfoundland and Labrador coast on the way north

Sailing ever northward in search of wildlife, culture and historyI get to travel to some great places as an expedition guide. A few months ago (pre-COVID-19), I travelled to parts of Canada I had never seen before and filled in gaps on my lifelong adventures in Canada’s remotest reaches. I thought I’d share some insights about Canada’s northern regions as we celebrate Canada’s 150-plus…

B.C. rec sites a natural delight for hardy campers

Visitors just have to be prepared to go with the flow, consider unconventional approaches and be flexible enough to adapt to travel with no reservations

B.C. rec sites a natural delight for hardy campersTo say it is a challenging year to travel out of province is to put things mildly in the extreme. With the enduring COVID-19 threat, most provinces have residents-only campsite reservation policies and national campgrounds have been booked tight for months. Yet with a little ingenuity and adventurous spirit, we discovered that British Columbia is…

Isolation-ish escapes and one dreamy trip to save for 2021

The best little K-Country Lodge you may not know about, three mountain lodges made for escapism, Icelandic dreams

Isolation-ish escapes and one dreamy trip to save for 2021The best little K-Country Lodge you may not know about Mount Engadine Lodge has the warm feeling of walking into an old friend’s cabin: knitted slippers in a basket for guests and a roaring fire in the main entryway are the backdrop for the beautiful mountain views from the dining room. The lodge is located…

An epic fishing adventure at the Arctic Circle

Ten friends, a rustic lodge and days spent on the pristine waters of Great Bear Lake

An epic fishing adventure at the Arctic CircleBy Grady Semmens “Well, I guess I actually have to do this now that we’ve come all this way,” says Jeff warily as he eyes the cloud of mosquitoes that tracks our every move and bounces off the nets that cover our heads. And with that, he casts off every stitch of clothing save for…

In the heart of the world’s largest non-polar icefield

All was ice, white curving fingers spilling from mountain valleys. Dark lines of ground rock defined each icy highway

In the heart of the world’s largest non-polar icefieldKLUANE NATIONAL PARK AND RESERVE, Yukon – I’ve been a geography nut since I was a kid. My noggin is full of useless facts. In pre-metric days, I memorized details of the world’s highest and lowest: Mount Everest, 29,028 feet; Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench, 35,814 feet. As a proud Canadian, I knew that…

Of sour toes, midnight golf, and birds singing for sex and war

Historic, colourful, quaint and sleep-deprived Dawson City; and up the perilous, muddy Dempster Highway

Of sour toes, midnight golf, and birds singing for sex and warUpon our return from six weeks exploring Canada’s north, friends enquired, “So what was your favourite place?” And each time, gazing distantly while recalling the amazing scenery, people and places we encountered, I answered: “Haven’t a clue.” But Dawson City, Yukon, is a good start. I love Dawson. Unlike cruise-ship destinations on the nearby Alaska…

A whale of a shift in seasons on the West Coast

Blackberries, figs, grey and humpback whales, and spawning salmon all herald the arrival of autumn

A whale of a shift in seasons on the West CoastAs August turns the corner to September, some notable and familiar signs of change occur at Skelhp, which is known as “The place where the ancients dropped down from the heavens and taught us how to make canoe paddles out of yew wood.” The blackberries that have been thriving over the past three weeks start…

A soft egg in the Nahanni National Park Reserve

Discovering Virginia Falls, a remarkable UNESCO World Heritage Site – and learning a little German

A soft egg in the Nahanni National Park ReserveON THE ALASKA HIGHWAY – In German, weichei means soft egg. It defines a person’s character. In Canada, we call them wimps. Charly Kudlacek is from Frankfurt in the German state of Hesse and, as eggs go, is hard-boiled. We met Charly and his wife Marion in a remote campground at Summit Lake on the…
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